Visciole are small, sour cherries that grow near Rome, and any Roman lucky enough to have a friend with a tree looks forward to the early summer harvest. Most visciole, like their even sourer relative, amarene, go straight into the jam pot, and it is the fate of most jams to end up spread in a thick tart crust. The use of the word pizza, rather than crostata, for this traditional Roman tart illustrates how the term was once applied to many kinds of cakes, breads, and pies. If you are short on time, use any good-quality commercial preserves-about 1 cup-that contains pieces of fruit.
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