A beloved feature of the Provencal diet, brandade de morue can be simple to prepare once you learn its secrets. Provencal chef Andre Perez, who lives west of Marseilles, says that to achieve the necessary creamy consistency of brandade, the milk and olive oil must be warmed separately and are never added to the salt cod too quickly. Otherwise, they will pool in the bottom of the pan rather than form a rich emulsion.
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