You can use black or New Zealand green-lipped mussels for this French recipe. When buying either type, select ones with tightly closed shells that are not cracked or broken. If a mussel is open, tap it; it should close promptly. To clean mussels, scrub the shells well under running water. The beard, a fibrous tuft near the hinge, should not be removed until just before cooking. Grasp it close to the shell and pull on it with a firm tug. Today, with so many farm-raised mussels in the market, beards are less fully formed and are easier to remove.
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