Clams are a bit tricky to partner with wine, especially if the clams are briny. The saltier the clam, the greater the need for a zesty, tart white that performs the same role as a squeeze of lemon juice-that is, it balances the saltiness with the acidity. If you're using sweeter clams, a complex and buttery white wine is appropriate. Dependable: Gavi or other Cortese-based Italian white wine. Daring: tart, dry European rose.