Green leafy vegetables are an integral part of the Italian diet, especially in the winter, when spinach, broccoli rabe and wild greens are at their best. Anything tender enough to be eaten raw can be tossed into a salad, and the rest is customarily boiled and treated in one of two ways: all'agro, dressed at the table with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice, or strascinata (literally, "dragged"), also referred to as ripassata in padella, sauteed with garlic and chili. Only spinach is handled differently: briefly steamed and served all'agro, with butter, or sauteed with raisins and pine nuts.
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