Some of the best food in Florence can be had at some of the least assuming places. The tiny Al Tranvai in Piazza Tasso, with its handful of indoor tables and a few more outside along the square, is one such gem. Owner Nanda Calamandrei's welcome is so direct and unpretentious, and her cooking so delightfully honest, that locals and travelers alike find themselves returning to Tranvai over and over again. Nanda's fig and walnut torte is a joy in a city not generally famous for its desserts.Serve with alkermes, a Florentine liqueur flavored with spices, or a sweet white dessert wine, such as vin santo.
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