Fresh morel mushrooms are a springtime delicacy. Their earthy perfume marries well with that of spring vegetables, especially asparagus. When buying morels, look for ones that have a fresh mushroom smell and feel heavy. Turn down any that are shriveled or, worse, mushy and waterlogged. To clean the many crevices, swish morels briefly in a bowl of water. Other flavorful mushrooms, such as chanterelles, shiitakes or portobellos, can be substituted.
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