At the entrance to the food market in Lecce, an elderly man in a dusty suit was selling small bouquets of greens. On closer inspection, they proved to be wild arugula. The spicy, nutty green grows throughout much of southern Italy, but it seems to taste best in Apulia. Foragers gather it for using both uncooked in salads and cooked as a vegetable or in pasta sauce. Next door, in Campania, cooks sometimes add raw arugula to the classic Capri salad of tomatoes and mozzarella.