Springtime leeks are the royalty of the onion family and have pride of place in French cuisine, where they appear with vinaigrettes and in quiches, stews and gratins, such as this one. Bursting with flavor, this dish works well as a first course, a main course or a side, and it can be baked in individual baking dishes or a single large one. Serve alongside a roast leg of lamb for a special occasion.
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