Here is a beautiful scenario for color coding: rose sparkling wine against the rich red tones of tuna tartare. The oily flesh of the tuna needs just a bit of balancing, which the wine's acidity provides, as it subtly enhances the lemon. To echo the toastiness of the wine, serve this spicy dish with toasted French bread or with quickly fried pappadams from India. Dependable: dry rose Champagne or sparkling wine. Daring: off-dry white wine such as Chenin Blanc.