Cooking the carrots, onion and celery in butter, a mixture known as a soffritto, imparts a mild, sweet flavor to this simple sauce. But the primary component is still tomato, which means using vine-ripened plum tomatoes in summer and the best-quality canned tomatoes, such as Italy's superb San Marzano variety, the rest of the year. To make a creamy tomato sauce, stir in 1/2 cup heavy cream once the sauce has thickened and simmer for 5 minutes more.
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