Only pancetta, the cured but unsmoked Italian bacon, should be used in this famous pasta dish from Rome. Pancetta is made from the same cut, pork belly, as the more common bacon, but it is salt-cured instead of smoked, giving it a subtler taste. Smoked bacon will overpower the delicate flavors of this dish. Look for good domestic brands of pancetta at delicatessens and Italian markets.
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