Not surprisingly, the Veneto is home to a wealth of rice and seafood dishes, from risotto alla marinara (with clams) to risotto di pesse (Venetian dialect for fish) to risotto ai frutti di mare (with mixed seafood) to the shrimp and crab risotto offered here. The Venetians are said to like their risotto allonda, that is, "with a wave." In other words, they prefer it loose and creamy and rather soupy, with the rice forming soft waves when pushed with a forkthe signature plate for a region with a long seafaring tradition. Scallops, squid or even a firm-fleshed fish fillet can be used in this risotto. Just be sure to cut the seafood into small pieces, about 1/2-inch dice. When peas are in season, you can add a handful during the last few minutes of cooking. Like most pasta, soups, rice and other dishes made with fish, this risotto is not served with cheese, which can overwhelm the delicate flavor of the seafood. A Pinot Grigio from either the Veneto or FriuliVenezia Giulia would complement the dish.