This rich, robust meat sauce is elegantly rustic. Add the pappardelle and the comfort factor is accentuated. The dish calls for a full-bodied, full-flavored red wine. Hearty Italian reds are especially sublime, but you'll have equal success with their counterparts from Spain or France or even muscular reds from the United States. Narrow lasagne noodles or wide fettuccine can be used in place of the pappardelle. Dependable: Nebbiolo blend from northwestern Italy. Daring: bold, dry Rose from France, California, or Australia.