This hearty soup captures the very essence of Paris. It gained its fame as the classic middle-of-the-night restorative during the heyday of Les Halles, the city's former wholesale food market, and was served in establishments big and small in the neighborhood. Today, you can still go to the onetime market quarter and order a bowl of the cheese-topped soup at the venerable Au Pied de Cochon (1er), which continues to nourish a steady stream of nighthawks who know where to find a meal when the rest of the city is asleep.Serve with a classic bistro red wine, such as a Beaujolais from Cotes de Brouilly or Morgon.
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