Parisians love wild mushrooms and flock to the city's markets in spring for the earthy-tasting morel, or from midsummer through autumn for the cepe, also known as the porcino. Other favorites include the delicately flavored girolle (chanterelle); the mild, bell-shaped mousseron (fairy ring); and the larger, more assertive pied bleu (wood blewit). Despite the lure of the wild, Parisian cooks have not forgotten the champignon de Paris, the familiar domestic white mushroom first cultivated during Napoleon's time in an area of quarries in the 15th arrondissement and now grown in the Loire Valley.Serve with a light- to medium-bodied red Burgundy, such as Pinot Noir, or a rustic white wine from the Jura.
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