Chef Joey Altman's great-grandma Esther was a fine cook. Nothing extravagant, but everything was delicious. Her vegetables were always soft and would be considered overcooked by most people, but the more she cooked them, the more the flavors intensified. Her brisket recipe is the epitome of that phenomenon. It makes a soul-satisfying main course for a Passover seder. Spaetzle is the perfect accompaniment (see related recipe at left).
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